Return policy and the need for a new "Fashion Literacy"

The arrival of Zalando in Ticino has ignited discussions about fast fashion and the return policy of the German retailer. Professor Lorenzo Cantoni, who is the director of the Master in Digital Fashion Communication (MDFC) and Vice-Dean of the Faculty of Communication, Culture and Society at Università della Svizzera italiana (USI), addresses this topic in an article published in LaRegione.

Zalando has announced plans to establish a return centre in Sant'Antonino. The return policy appears to be a cornerstone of the business model for the German company, a leader in online clothing sales. In fact, according to Zalando itself, approximately half of all items purchased are returned. "In the clothing sector, the ability to physically examine and try on products is paramount. One of the conditions for getting online trade off the ground was certainly the possibility of being able to return goods free of charge," explains Professor Lorenzo Cantoni, "Seeing a dress on a model in a photograph is one thing, but seeing how it looks on you is a whole other experience. The free returns policy is understandable and meets users' legitimate expectations." However, this practice is also problematic: "The main issue is the excessively high number of returns caused by poor customer practices that are encouraged by the system. For example, customers might order three different garment sizes, fully aware that at least two will be returned." The issues at hand encompass not only environmental concerns but also economic and social implications. While e-commerce businesses are becoming more mindful of their environmental footprint, we cannot overlook the impact of the extensive distances covered by products during production, delivery, and potential returns. While the MDFC director is confident about the data provided by Zalando regarding its consumption and emissions, he admits that it is challenging to have the same control for processes subcontracted to third parties. Professor Cantoni, however, opposes demonising fast fashion and online sales. "Online shopping has not replaced in-store shopping. This was the case during COVID-19, but afterwards, the sales percentages through the internet dropped."

On the contrary, online sales can be a tool for brands and retailers to reach customers in a differentiated way. "The trend is that of omnichannel, i.e. the possibility of having different contact points between customers and the company." Chinese e-commerce platforms require a separate discussion. "When it comes to China, and considering the practices of forced labour, the issue is particularly complex because it is much more difficult to understand who produced an object and under what conditions."

According to Professor Cantoni, the solution to the critical issues that have emerged lies in educating people to make an informed purchase. "At school, we teach children that eating an apple rather than a pre-packaged snack is better, so we expect the school to help us with nutrition. However, when it comes to buying a pair of shoes or a suit, only some children or adults can distinguish the type of yarn, how it was produced, or, more generally, recognise different detergents and their impact on the environment and people. It is, therefore, necessary to educate consumers so that they can make conscious and responsible choices, not only on the type of clothes to buy but also on how they are used, thus avoiding buying a dress that will only be worn for one occasion."

The full article, edited by Cristina Pinho, is available at the following link. (Italian only)